Test Shoots + Working With Modeling Agencies
Commonly asked questions when starting out in fashion photography
Working with agencies and agency-signed models is not as scary as you think. I truly think it is essential to elevating your portfolio and being taken seriously by brands and potential clients.
What is a test shoot and why are they important?
A “test or test shoot” is a creative shoot that is for the sole purpose of portfolio building for the model and yourself. To build trust and get brands to take a chance on you, you have to show them what you are capable of. It is also a great way to develop relationships with models who you may want to work with again in the future and can recommend to a future client.
You can find agency emails either through a modeling agency’s website or by asking the models directly on Instagram what their agent’s email is. Often it is in the bios of a model’s instagram. If you don’t know where to start, models.com is a great resource and houses a directory of all the top modeling agencies around the world. I have used it when looking for agencies abroad in Paris and Spain, markets that I am not as familiar with!
I personally like working with models directly on tests however as there's a little less pressure on the shoot and you get to be a bit more free with it. When communicating with an agent about a test, essentially they become your client and often have a certain idea for what they want for their model. The pro of this however, is that the model is often very professional and on time, where as when I have shot and tried to set up tests directly with models, often they can flake and be less prepared.
Email Examples:
A “new face” is what we call models who are brand new in the industry. They are often younger and still really learning the trade of modeling. If you are starting out in photography, it is a great way to get practice as agencies are more willing to send out new faces to work with new photographers since it serves as a mutually beneficial collaboration. As you get more seasoned in the industry, whether you are a photographer or a model, you naturally become much more selective about the personal tests you take on. I usually am now reaching out to agencies regarding a specific model I want to test with over requesting a “package.”
A “package” is just a selection of girls that the agency sends as options for your project.
Emailing Agents for a Campaign
When emailing an agent regarding a campaign you must include a few things, possible dates, relative location, usage, and rate range. Sometimes I link the brand so they can get a feel for the type of models I am looking for. “AG” simply just means the agency fee which is usually around 20% of the model fee.
If there are a few models that you are interested in, but are waiting for the final decision from the brand you can put a model on “hold” or “option them” to keep them free for your date. You do have to “release them” once you confirm another model however. If a model is optioned by another brand, you can place a second option, which means that while the other brand has first priority, you'll be kept informed about the model's availability. If you really want to confirm that model for your shoot, you can challenge it and the agent will check back with the other brand and let them know that another brand wants to confirm that model.
Modelling Terms You Need To Know from Elite
Some of my favorite test shoots I’ve shot to date:
Maitlyn Simmons w/ Two Management.
My first time working with Helena Lu (with VISION), someone I now consider a friend! I messaged her on Instagram the day before we shot in DTLA!
One of my first tests ever with an agency-signed model. I met Maelys Garouis when we cast her for a Jen’s Pirate Booty shoot and I knew I wanted to shoot with her again. I remember her suggesting to go under the overgrown brush, and it ended up being my favorite shoot and really expanded my understanding of how light impacts film photography.
